For this first column, J&L settles down at Datil, the Michelin-starred restaurant of chef Manon Fleury, where the products of the land are sublimated by a passionate and committed team. As soon as you cross the threshold of the establishment, an enveloping welcoming atmosphere puts you at ease. Tables lined up, beige-white walls, guests already seated, enthusiastically immersed in the gastronomic menu. Here, the atmosphere is warm and relaxed,
like an invitation to slow down and enjoy.

Our table, located just in front of the open kitchen, allows us to immerse ourselves in the spectacle of service. Manon Fleury reigns there in complete serenity, orchestrating her cooks with calm and mastery. The décor is revealed: impeccable white tablecloths, handmade ceramics and small mismatched glasses that seem to come straight from a grandmother's wardrobe. A balance between tradition and modernity, a nod to authenticity, just like the carefully presented booklet recounting the history of the restaurant, the products and the works of art that inspire this cuisine.

Sequence after sequence, a daring exploration of flavours

We begin a menu in seven sequences, accompanied by a Chenin blanc from Simon Batardière meticulously chosen by a sommelier with a playful look but undeniable seriousness. Each bottle is told with passion, adding depth to our experience.

To open the festivities, a trio of amuse-bouches showcasing corn in contrasting textures — a silky flan, a crisp tempura, and a delicately salted polenta tuile.
The tempura and tuile, in particular, catch our attention.

In a delicate duet of pink and white, radish and pear come together in a refined, visually elegant starter. On the palate, the pear’s tender sweetness almost nudges the dish towards dessert territory.

The third act bursts onto the scene with brilliance. The prawn’s head, fried to crisp perfection and bursting with umami, is followed by a layered composition of raw prawn, shiso, and nectavignes. The texture of the prawn, paired with the fruit and aromatic leaves, evokes that rare emotion one hopes to experience in a Michelin-starred restaurant. A true visual and gustatory apotheosis.

Mushrooms — black trumpet and hedgehog mushrooms — intertwine with quince in a rich, umami-laden broth, while a skewer of grilled quince paired with lard amplifies the earthy depth of the dish. A deeply comforting course, where the broth captivates with its remarkable depth.

Raw scallop meets Morteau sausage and delicately twirled squash spaghetti, creating a striking interplay of textures, all brought together by a scallop trim broth reminiscent of a classic veal blanquette. A bold dish that surprises with its finesse and impeccable balance.

As the tempo builds, the seamless flow of courses carries us into a crescendo of emotions, culminating in the pre-dessert: a refreshing sorrel and apple sorbet, paired with a spelt crisp — the perfect palate cleanser
to mark the end of the savoury journey.

The season takes centre stage with a dessert that celebrates chestnut and clementine, presented as both sorbet and candied elements. A gentle, elegant conclusion that pairs beautifully with the selected wine, Les Pentes de La Paonnerie, another Chenin Blanc — this time from the Loire Valley — perfectly complementing the citrus notes of the dessert.

The final bite: a warm madeleine filled with plum jam and topped with a dehydrated plum — a simple yet flawless closing note, and one of the meal’s unexpected highlights.

Datil offers a radiant encounter between plant-based creativity and the expert craftsmanship of Manon Fleury, where each dish reflects a profound respect for the ingredients and a meticulous attention to textures and cooking techniques, allowing every element to shine.

The wine pairings, thoughtfully selected — from a biodynamic oaked Chenin to a dry Elbling from the Moselle and a natural Chenin Blanc for dessert — elegantly enhance the flavours at every step.

The staff is, unfailingly kind and patient, even with guests like us!

Thank you! Datilement Yours...

Sebastian

Photo credits: @Near711